'Specialty Food' industry downplays fears of salt backlash at Fancy Food show

There was lots of spicy talk about salt yesterday at the annual Fancy Food show put on by the $63 billion "specialty food" industry.

Recent warnings by Mayor Bloomberg and the AMA didn't seem to worry many of the 2,400 exhibitors at the Javits Center exhibition, since salt is as vital to chips, dips, cakes and cheeses as bats are to baseball.

Susan Eriksen of Char Crust, which makes meat seasonings, says the company lowered sodium on some flavors, including ginger. They just don't push it.

"Our original hickory goes back to 1957," she says. "People like it the way it is. We see no reason to mess with a good thing."

Jean Erlich of Rock 'N' Roll Gourmet, a new company whose snacks include Buffalo Wing Chips With Blue Cheese Drizzle, says her company keeps sodium down by incorporating other ingredients, like jalapeno.

"I still want flavor," she says. "I don't want a chip that tastes like paint."

So, how do the companies try to lose the bad effects of sodium while keeping the flavor?

Some are gambling on substitutes - like J&D Foods, which sells bacon salt. It also sells "baconnaise" and bacon-flavored lip balm, but salt is the big seller.

"When people discover this, they eat less regular salt," co-owner Dave Lefkow says. "We have 75% less sodium than regular salt."

One bacon salt customer in Texas told Lefkow he puts it on marshmallow Peeps and grills it. Salty and sweet.

Others say the solution is healthier salt.

"The salt the AMA and the mayor are saying is bad for you is refined salt," says Melissa Kushi of HimalaSalt. "Most of the minerals and nutrients have been taken out and what's left is pretty much sodium and garbage."

"People see articles on the effect of too much sodium and they think, 'Oh, salt will kill you,'" says Dianna Ramey of Gold Mine Natural Food Co. "No, salt won't. Pure, unrefined salt is good for you."

"It's not rocket science," says Hernan Fuenzalida of BioSalt. "Just use healthier salt."

Still, low-sodium will never become no-sodium.

"People want taste," she says, "and they're willing to spend for high-end salty snacks. We've never been busier. This business seems to be recession-proof."

nydailynews.com